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| Description | Model of Bike | Part Number |
| Wiring Harness | 748-916/97 | 51011071C |
| Adaptor Plate | 748R/00 748-996B/01 | 82711561A |
| Regulator | SH673-12 996 B.P/00 | 54040131A |
The plate has to be trimmed to fit onto the triangular original plate, I
found this easy, with a junior hacksaw and a file to smooth things off.
The whole modification to the plate took a few minutes. The adaptor
cable plugs straight into the original harness and matches the new
regulator, there is even a little blanking plug to make the unused pair
of wires safe, although a little tape would have sufficed. The only
difference is the telltale light on the dash stops working but I thought
a sweet starting motor was more important.
As you can see quite a mix of models but it does the job.
For those who are still using two headlights on dip remember the
alternator is only rated at
300w so either 60/35W bulbs should be used or like I have
done disconnect the near side dip wire. see Poor
Headlight Performance below.
posted by Paul Kristensen
When I first had my 900ie the turnover speed at start was slow. This resulted in poor starting when cold. After some help from the eab serverlists I changed the cable from the solenoid to the starter with some cable used for a car starter motor. This has helped the starting speed a lot and now starts up properly when cold.
posted by Paul Kristensen
The headlights using the standard cabling on the Fant is about 3 candlepower......
The Fant has a problem that the alternator generates only 300W of power. If you use both headlights on dip all the time the battery gradually runs flat. This problem is even worse on the 900ie's as they have a high pressure fuel pump for the fuel injection and so load and consumption balancing is more important. The lights are fed straight from the wiring harness and handlebar switch, which is not capable of supplying the correct current loading, hence the headlights appear to be about 3 candlepower. A simple answer that most of us have found, is to run with one headlight on when in dipped mode and both on when in high beam. The reasoning is that when using high beam you are usually out of town and moving along quicker, therefore more revs on the engine. This gives the battery it's best chance of remaining charged. It also means that for normal running ie around town and during the day the battery is getting its full charge.
To address the problem of insufficient
current supply for the headlights I ran 2 heavy wires (27amp rated) from
the battery, one from either side, the
positive wire goes through a 15amp inline fuse holder. I then cut the
wires on the bike's harness where they fork out to
each headlight. The wires from the bike side fed the
coil side of the relay and the switched side fed by
the heavy wire from the battery I connected to the short leads up
to the headlight. I took the view that the
short wire length from the split in the harness to the
actual bulb should be adequate. This obviated the need for
new plugs on the back of the headlight. The relays were single pole single
thro units rated at 30amps and came from my local auto accessory shop.
The whole job with new wire and crimp lugs cost me £30
and it has made a difference. The wires that feed the
side lights I left as they were.
I have modified my 900ie
in this way and the results were
pleasing. I am sure that yours will be just as easy.
posted by Paul Kristensen
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Send mail to
Paul@elefantriders.com with
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